西蒙专栏 | 李伟平:「要古巴 要古巴,不要美国佬」 一个被时间遗忘的国度,一片充斥着矛盾感的土壤

2019年07月13日 澳中商圈



图文/Allan Li

摄影,旅游,美食,及文化


到古巴,寻觅这个革命老区,却发现似乎古巴革命尚未结束,资产阶级已经悄悄抬头。

As I travelled to Cuba in search for a sense of nostalgia, I was surprised to find out that the Cuban Revolution has still yet come to a close with signs of a rising capitalist movement.

童年时唱的「要古巴!要古巴!不要美国佬!这是一首老歌的歌词,现在中国几乎没有人会唱了,店铺里倒是有可口可乐卖,也许干革命还是需要喝点可乐,但却根本找不到一瓶「王老吉」,中国的「一带一路」,可别忘记了这位老战友啊!

Despite the close bond that Cuba and China once had shared, their relationship has faded throughout the years, both taking steps away from each other and towards their respective futures. There was even a time during my childhood years, where we used to sing “Be like Cuba! Be like Cuba! But we don’t need you Americans!” But such an old song no longer exists. Likewise, how CocaCola is sold in local Cuban stores but no Wang Lao Ji. Perhaps Cuba has forgotten their old comrade?

首都哈瓦那大多数建筑早己破烂残旧,但是牆上那些宣传画和装饰品依然保留着一些社会主义风格,一种陌生而又熟悉的感觉。我们连续去了几个古镇,有种回到六十年代前的感觉,革命的余晖隐约可见。据说,六十年代以后,这个国家基本没有什麽城市建设和经济发展。

Upon the arrival in Cuba’s capital Havana, I discovered a strong sense of déjà vu with its old towns filled with remnants of the revolution from the 1960s. Could it be that Cuba had stopped major urban and economic development 60 years ago?

汽车拖着疲惫的身影在公路上行驶,终于在路边一家咖啡店停下。我要了一杯Espresso, 杯子里附带一根小小的甘蔗,咖啡很苦,甘蔗却很甜,真是绝佳搭配!我需要付1元代用券,相当于澳币1.5元,而当地人只需要付相当于40分澳币就可以了。

As our car slowly but surely chugged down the road to finally arrive upon a coffee shop. There I sat down and ordered an espresso, as the waiter served me I noticed they had placed inside, a small piece of sugarcane. The sweetness from the sugarcane blended well with the bitterness of coffee creating a sense of bliss. What was interesting was that I, as a foreigner had to pay 1 Chavito equivalent to about $1.50 Australian Dollars, while locals would only pay in Pesos to the equivalent of 40 cents.

古巴的社会制度看上去很建全,免费的全民教育,医疗堪称世界一流水平,犯罪率几乎为零,古巴人大多引以为傲。然而,非常落后的工业和极度缺乏的物质,让古巴人对改革开放非常期待的同时,却又恐惧资本主义的入侵,他们内心充满着矛盾。

Cuba’s social systems are well established, such as providing free education and free healthcare with low crime rates. However, their industries are falling behind with an extreme lack of material supplies which has left many Cubans conflicted. They want to open up to capitalism but fear the deterioration of their current well maintained Cuban society.

城市并没有什么现代化的建筑,残旧楼房比比皆是,过去的繁华早已烟消云散。比较抢眼的是一些三四十年代的古典出租汽车在小巷里兜转,形成特有的风景。古朴和宁静的城市似乎与现代生活没多大的关系。

In a city with no modern structures, the streets filled with dated buildings and the prosperity of the past running into the ends of its course, only leaving behind the vivid coloured classical taxis cruising along the narrow alleyways. The city is quiet and slow, a huge contrast to our fast-paced modern lifestyles.

「要雪茄!要可乐!要萍果(手机)!就是不要美国佬!」 似乎更能理解这个国家目前的状况。

“Want cigars! Want Coca-Cola! Want Apple (iPhone )! But we do not want the United States” these are the words and thoughts that represent the Cuban people.

李伟平(Allan Li),商业摄影和平面设计师.

Allan Li, Commercial Photographer and Graphic Designer.


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